تشانغشا (长沙)

Changsha is the capital of Hunan province and the spiritual home of some of China's most important figures — Mao Zedong studied here, and the city's revolutionary energy is still palpable. But most people come for the food.

Yuelu Academy

One of China's four great ancient academies, founded in 976 AD during the Song Dynasty. Nestled at the foot of Mount Yuelu, this is where Confucian scholars studied for a thousand years. The gardens are serene, the architecture is classic, and the views over Changsha from the top of the mountain are spectacular. Go in autumn when the maple leaves turn red — the annual "Red Leaf Festival" is a local institution.

Orange Island (Juzizhou)

A long, narrow island in the middle of the Xiang River, accessible by bridge. Mao Zedong wrote one of his most famous poems here — "Changsha" — about the autumn scenery. There's a massive statue of Mao's head at the southern tip (it's bigger than you'd expect). The island is best visited in autumn when the oranges are ripe.

Taiping Street

Changsha's most famous food street, lively from morning until 2am. Wander the alleys and try everything: chou doufu (stinky tofu), tangyou baba (sweet glutinous rice balls), and the famous Changsha da xiang chang (large sausage on a stick). This is street food paradise.

Fire God Palace (Huogongdian)

A historic restaurant and entertainment complex in the old city that has been serving Hunan classics since 1747. The architecture alone is worth the visit — ornate Qing Dynasty pavilions. The stinky tofu here is some of the best in the city.

Food

Hunan cuisine (Xiang cai) is China's spiciest — and I mean that literally. The heat comes from fresh green and red chillies used in almost every dish. The flavour philosophy is simple: heavy on chilli, garlic, and fermented black beans. Change your plans to accommodate meals.

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