My daughter told me last night: "Mama, when I grow up I want to be a travel planner like you. But I'll plan trips for grandmas." I asked why grandmas. "Because they're the ones who actually have time to enjoy things." Out of the mouths of six-year-olds. She's not wrong though. I've spent 15 years watching travellers pack too much into too little time. The 6-city, 10-day itineraries. The "we can sleep when we get home" approach. The frantic rush from one attraction to the next. And then I watch the ones who do it differently. The retired couple who stayed in one Chengdu neighbourhood for a week and got invited to a local family's home for dinner. The solo traveller who spent three afternoons in the same tea house and ended up learning calligraphy from an elderly regular. The best China trips aren't the ones that cover the most ground. They're the ones where you let the country happen to you. Not bad advice from a six-year-old.

Sunday evening. The girls are finally asleep. I reheat my tea for the third time and sit down to plan next week’s schedule. A family from Germany emailed today — they want a 14-day trip covering Shanghai, Guilin, and Chengdu. I’ve done this route a dozen times but every family is different. This one has two kids aged 7 and 10, so I’m thinking: fewer temples, more food markets, and at least one panda encounter they’ll talk about for years. Sunday evenings at home are my reset button.

Just spent the morning sketching out a Shanghai-Suzhou trip for an Australian family of four. The dad sent me a voice note last night: "I showed the kids photos of the water towns, and now they will not stop asking when we are going." That voice note is going to keep me going all week. Here is the route we landed on: three nights in Shanghai (Bund view, Yuyuan Garden, a food tour through the old lanes), then a day trip to Suzhou by high-speed train (23 minutes, ¥40). The kids are 9 and 12, so I added a stop at the Shanghai Natural History Museum and a evening cruise on the Huangpu River. The mom asked me: "Is Suzhou worth it for just one day?" I told her: Suzhou is the Venice of the East, except the canals actually still have locals living along them. One day is enough to see the Humble Administrators Garden, walk a canal street, and eat the best xiaolongbao of your life before catching the train back. Monday morning — coffee in hand, a full week ahead, a family excited about their China trip. Not a bad way to start the week.

Every time someone asks me if XiAn is worth visiting, I give the same answer: book your train ticket first and ask questions later. The Terracotta Warriors are incredible (obviously), but the real magic? Walking the ancient city wall at sunset. Rent a bike (45 RMB for 2 hours), ride the full 14 km loop, and watch the city transition from day to night. The lights come on over the Muslim Quarter, the call to prayer drifts across the old city, and for a moment you feel like you have traveled back in time. I have done this 30+ times and it still gets me.