Took a French couple to a food market in Chengdu last month. They wanted to try everything but had no idea where to start. I told them: pick whatever vegetable or meat catches your eye, hand it to any stall owner, ask them to cook it. No menu. No prices. Just point, nod, and wait. The wife grabbed a green leafy thing she had never seen. Turned out to be water spinach (空心菜). The owner stir-fried it with garlic in two minutes. Cost: 8 yuan. She stared at the plate like it was magic. She told me later that was the best meal of their trip. She still does not know what she ate. Some of the best meals in China do not happen in restaurants. They happen on plastic stools in a market alley, eating something cooked by someone whose grandmother taught them.

Every time someone asks me if XiAn is worth visiting, I give the same answer: book your train ticket first and ask questions later. The Terracotta Warriors are incredible (obviously), but the real magic? Walking the ancient city wall at sunset. Rent a bike (45 RMB for 2 hours), ride the full 14 km loop, and watch the city transition from day to night. The lights come on over the Muslim Quarter, the call to prayer drifts across the old city, and for a moment you feel like you have traveled back in time. I have done this 30+ times and it still gets me.